WHY! Yoga Road Trip Day 26

I love the ocean. Oh my god, I am an ocean boy.

Might now be able to live by the great vast liquid permanently just yet, but when I am in her arms, when I am gliding across her breathing belly (and the ocean has a breath, it rise and flows, with a heart beat, a beat that inspired ancient yogis to discover the sound “om”), there is a peacefulness, there is a sense of awe at a larger experience, something similar to what happens to you on the first sexual embrace with someone who touches your heart, similar to looking at your child, similar to accomplishing a goal, similar to how you feel at the end of Mysore practice, or completing a deep elongated meditation.

I know the ocean was my first enlightenment experience. Though I refer back to a more surreal experience when I was 19, when I experienced the aspect of the non changing expression that lives us all.

None the less, every time I get on a surfboard, and today I rented two surfboard, with the hope of teaching my wife and son how to catch waves, every time I get on a surf board I realize the unquestionable existence that is life.

While I had the hope of surfing the long board and the short board, my son was not a happy camper when he saw how large the world pool was, compared to the pool he has been swimming at in AZ. He was crying when I put him on the board, crying as I walked him to the ocean, crying as I plopped him into the luke warm ocean waters.

My wife was a trooper, paddling around the white wash and even getting taken for a quick ride with the foaming waters. After 30 minutes she was ready to take my wailing boy back to shore, where he was watching his father go out past the white water and ride a few waves.

It really was not as good as the night before, but then again, that is the classic surfer experience…if only I was here yesterday is something you will hear again and again if you travel in the hunt of waves.

though after 10 months on land, I was excited my arms and legs could pick it up quick…like riding a bicycle. In fact I did not even make it out to the line out when I scoped that an incoming wave is curling and breaking, and I quickly turned my board and took my first ride.

After a long and fun session in the morning sun, we came back to shore, making our way to a greasy local fish restaurant for some hush puppies, fish and fries. Oh how I missed Salt Works!

Of course I went to an afternoon session, but the swell has died down and the wind caused much of it to be white washed.

Sunset could not have had a better taste.

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